![]() Most notably the color balance needs to be rock-solid set to a fixed value between - Wow! That is fantastic footage. Last point to note: for any approach (HDR/exposure fusion) working with different exposures of a single film frame, you have to make sure that any setting other than the exposure time stays really constant between the different exposures. There are ample examples on this forum about what you can achieve with exposure fusion and Super-8 color reversal material. Your software “easyHDR” is offering a mode called “Smart Merge” for tone-mapping which is actually not based on an intermediate radiance map (so it’s no HDR in the pure sense), but it is kind of equivalent to exposure fusion (judging from the manual of easyHDR). (I can give more details here if anyone wants to know.) People tend to call the image which comes out of the tone-mapping “HDR”, but this is technically wrong. There exist tons of different approaches to tone-mapping, all of them not universally applicable in an automatic fashion. This step is generally called “tone-mapping”. To get to something close to the impression of the original footage, always a kind of electronic development similar to the “development” of raw images is needed. The algorithm to create a radiance map (HDR) out of a stack of different exposures is photogrammetry at its best and because of that it creates (has to create) very funny looking “images”. Real HDR technically gives you a map of scene radiances - but this is most probably not what a film archivist is really after. ![]() Very different beasts!Īlso, “HDR” is a much overused synonym. I guess for this type of discussion one should at least differentiate between scans of newer color negative film material and scans of old color-reversal footage. While I’m trying to stay open source for all the software I use, this one is paid, but it’s affordable AND it’s a perpetual license. For the HDR output I used a program called EasyHDR, which I am using because you can batch process large quantities of files. The first exposure was taken at 1/160, 200 ISO, and the second was two stops higher at 1/80 and 400 ISO. 1mm, so I don’t want to go to a wider setting than that). Both exposures are at f/8 (it goes from f/2.8 to f/16, but the DOF at 5x and f/8 is. I’m using a Canon 5d Mark II (an older professional body) and a Laowa Venus 2.5x-5x macro lens (on 5x) with a modified dual 8 projector. Also, HDR is beyond useful for getting the image color quality out of the original frame. Some people say 4k on Super8 isn’t worth it, but I think that it is, based on the quality I’m getting. I’ve been working on getting my homemade telecine up and running for a while now, with a few breaks in between. I know there has been some discussion as to whether or not to use HDR.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |